![]() Pro-Polish goes on so thinly that Fleetwax applies quite nicely on top of it. If you look at the alternate definitions and for example apply Fleetwax on top of Pro-Polish, no, you won't have double trouble. So in the case of Meguiars, you're SUPPOSED to apply wax over polish. The problem is, some of the color is absorbed too. Meguiar’s M5032 One-step Liquid Cleaner Wax. The polish is a dark brown liquid designed to penetrate the gelcoat with oils. Their 3-step process works, but I stopped using it a few years ago after getting frustrated with the boat yellowing. If you were to put a protecting layer (polymer or wax) on the surface and then try to apply their polish, it would slip around on top of the surface and go to waste. Meguiars polish is a different approach - it claims to add "oils" to moisten the gelcoat and add shine. Some polishes are a fine abrasive - the last step before coating the surface with a lasting layer of a polymer or wax-based protectant. Other mfr's, such as Meguiars, refer to a polish as a "shine enhancer" but not as a protectant. Some manufacturers use the word "polish" to distinguish their polymer-based protectant product from natural waxes. I discussed the confusing definitions of "polish" and "wax" in another thread, but it's probably easier to retype it. It's extremely sensitive to preparation and proper application, but when used correctly, it has unbeatable durability and I have to give IT the credit when people walk up to this 11 year old boat and ask if it's new.Īctually David, the correct order of the Meguiars products are: Cleaner, Polish, THEN Wax. Also, because it contains no abrasives, it cannot be applied to a surface with ANY dirt or oxidation. DO NOT LET IT DRY OR EVAPORATE!!!!!! You'll have a sticky mess. The product to which I'm referring is their paste Fleetwax, #885. The swim platform is even more frustrating, because it has Sure Step AND gets soap.Ĭollinite is not a product, it's a brand. After as little as a month, I'll need to re-apply Sure Step, while the Fleetwax areas bead water like they did on day 1. The Fleetwax'ed transom on the other hand, gets dirty runoff from the canvas, so I use soap. On the port side decks, I typically will rinse dirt off with water alone, so detergent can't be blamed for stripping away the product. At any given time, I have coats of polymer polishes, carnuba waxes and non-skid products. /rebates/2fip2fRejeX-High-Gloss-Polymer-Wax-16-oz2f46651053&. I decide which areas get which product based upon: ease of application, durability, safety, visibility, condition of the surface etc. I use a compilation of different products and brands around the boat. However, its durability is so dismal that I no longer bother (and cannot afford) to keep the all of the non-skid areas "protected" by it. Anything else that would be better? The surface is like sand paper, so I'm not too worried about making it "too slick"Īll that is a long way of saying that I want to: 1- get it clean and back to the original color and 2- seal it and make it easier to get future stains off.As a quick and easy way to add shine without making the surface dangerously slipperly, Sure Step does a good job. IronOut (oxalic acid), ON and OFF, Starbrite, The Works, phosphoric acid (ospho), Muriatic acid, ?Īfter scrubbing and rinsing that off, I will probably need to scrub it down with a degreaser, to get any oil/hydrocarbon stains out, since acid based products won't dissolve those?Īfter all of that, I will use a wax/sealant/polish to seal it back up and make it easier to keep clean. I have a lot of non skid area on this boat, so one of the cheaper options would be preferred, but if the more expensive ones are better/easier, then I'll go that route.but they all have close to the same acids in them. ![]() Many of the cleaners use an acid,or a mixture of acids, to get the stains out. I know rust stain remover will remove the rust, but what about all the other ****? I am guessing that I will need something pretty aggressive. The question is, which cleaner? I know I will need more than just "soap" to remove all the stains and restore the color. As you all know, the non-skid (looks like a tough coat/sand type texture?) makes it impossible to use a polisher on it, so i guess I need to use a medium bristle brush on it. I want to get the whole deck back to the original color. It is also lighter, where the old hinges were covering the original gelcoat. I had the hatches/hinges redone and where the old holes were, the gelcoat was patched and is noticeably lighter color. Over the years, it has darkened a little and is a pain to scrub and get back to the original color. I have a non skid deck that was originally a very light gray color.
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